
A quick short circuit test showed the panel was supplying a tad over 10
Amps. My meter is rated at 20Amps, many are only rated at 10 Amps.
If you blow a fuse in your meter, don't fuss at me! |

The specification decal on the back of the panel. |

With my application, I like using the Z-brackets. Keeps the panels
fairly close to the roof, making them less likely to fly off during a storm.
Each panel is secured to the roof with 16 stainless steel lag bolts.
This is far cheaper than buying a rail mount system. |

Each bracket is secured to the panel frame with a couple 1/4-20 stainless
hardware. A drop of Loctite on each bolt keeps all the hardware
secure. |

I use one of the existing holes in each corner of the frame, but have to
drill a second hole since there isn't one available where I need it. I
HIGHLY recommend using a Uni-Bit rather than a standard drill bit. A
standard drill bit can catch, and pull its way into the back of the solar
panel, probably quicker than you can react. A Uni-Bit hesitates at
each step, allowing time to react. |

Tighten up the hardware, and the mechanical portion is done, other than some
clean-up of the metal filings. |

This version has a junction box. The terminals are clearly marked +
and -. Kyocera now includes the fitting for the wire to pass through,
which clamps down on the wires when finished. |

These types of wire clamps don't require a lug on the wire. Guess I'm
old fashioned. I like using a good quality lug under the clamp.
These panels are expensive, don't skimp on the wire, or you're wasting
electrons before you can use them. Per one of the online wire
calculators, 10 gauge wire gave me ~ a 3% loss at the distance I needed. |

Here you can see that fitting sealing tightly against the wires. |

All wired up, junction box screwed shut. Ready to install. FWIW,
I have no splices on the roof. Each panel has a separate cable leading
into the attic. All terminations are inside the attic, keeping the
connections dry and corrosion free. |

The new 135W Kyocera is tad bigger (physically) than the slightly older 130W
Kyocera panels. No great surprise. The new frames are also a
little taller, and painted black. |

Same array from the other end. Four 15W Harbor Freight panels,
followed by three 15W Northern Tool panels, then four 130W Kyocera panels,
and a single 135W Kyocera panel. Hopefully the replacement panel will
arrive in a few days, and I'll put it up on the weekend. Oh, there's
still a small 5W Harbor Freight panel on the North side.
That'll give me a total of 900 Watts of panels. |

No kidding! |

The back of the box had a large gash in it. |

Not good... |

Turns out the gash was on the glass side, which completely shattered the
safety glass on the panel. |

I wish companies that pack solar panels would spend an extra buck or two,
and protect the glass side a little better. A few pieces of cardboard
isn't effective. |

Hard to tell from the thumbnail image, but the panel on the right is
shattered. Click for a larger view. |

A close-up of the panel glass. |

Repackaged, ready for UPS pickup. |

A week later, the replacement panel arrived. No damage this time. |

A quick short circuit current test shows it's working fine. |

I install all my own hardware. Consequently, the size/weight of the
panels is an important consideration. I can comfortably carry a 135W
panel with one hand, while climbing up the ladder.
|

Actually climbing up the ladder, is easier than getting back down.
Sure you want to do this yourself?
|

I do use a tool belt, but I had already pre-staged the drill, caulk tube,
etc, on the roof. Didn't want to try and carry it all at once. |

The feet were already installed on the panel, and the panel has already been
wired. It's hot up there, and awkward to work on the sloped roof.
I tried to get as much work done in the garage before heading up the ladder. |

Sixteen holes, bolts, and washers, and it's not going anywhere.
Finally have 900 Watts of solar panels on the roof. |

The UV rays are harsh here in FL. I'm using split loom to protect the
wiring. |

The ridge vent has drip holes about every foot. Perfect to secure the
wiring with tie wraps. |

A view from the other end of the roof. |