RV Chassis Rollers

Class C RVs have the rear axle a long way from the rear bumper.  This makes them prone to dragging the rear when going through dips in the road.  The plumbing for the waste tanks is in this same location, which could make for a messy experience.

The hitch on our RV is made by Lippert.  It has a couple of built in skid plates, to help the situation.  I'm not sure if they would hit before the plumbing is ripped off or not... it's close.  The fix has been around for decades.  Add a couple of heavy duty steel wheels to the skids.  My hitch also drags, so I'll be adding an extra wheel there too.



These arrived ready to weld in place.  No prep work needed on these.  My MIG welder is a Lincoln 100A unit.  More than a decade old now.  Great for little jobs like this.

My hitch riser drags the most.  I used an angle grinder, with a flap wheel, to remove the paint and rust.

I took the paint off another section to connect the ground.

Yea, I'm no prefessional welder, but this isn't going anywhere.

In the past, the anti-rattle clamps would hit first.

Now the wheel is the lowest point on the hitch.

Same process repeated for the hitch skid plates.

Painted to match.

These are the products used today.  The Tri-Flow was used on the hitch pin locks.  The paint on all the new hardware, plus used it on the hitch and frame that were starting to rust.  The Fluid Film was used on the threads of the anti-rattle clamps.

These should help protect the rear of the RV, and it looks like they were factory installed.

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Last updated 09/23/23    All rights reserved.